Having been doing my blog for a number of years I have never enter or been nominated for, a blog competition, so this is exciting for me! If you enjoy this blog please take 30 seconds to vote for me and Emma, Electronicmountainleader can be found in the camping section, and Emma's blog Mountaingirl can be found in the climbing section! Any votes are greatly appreciated! We are also featured on the Staffordshire University website (Em being a current student and me a former student!) - http://www.staffs.ac.uk/news/staffs-bloggers-reach-new-heights-tcm4283540.jsp
Saturday 2 May 2015
Simply Hike blogger awards 2015 finalist
Some good news, me and my amazing girlfriend Emma both made it to the finals of the Simply Hike blogger awards 2015! Having spoke to Shaun at Simply Hike he confirmed that there were 1000's of entries for the various categories, so for both of us to get this far is a proud moment!
Tuesday 14 April 2015
Equipment for Single Pitch Award – Making the right choices
This is the second in my
series of “Making the right choices” articles on what equipment you should take
for your assessment in a range of qualifications. This segment is for the
Mountain Training Single Pitch Award (SPA).
After I completed my
Mountain Leader, my SPA was the next qualification I wanted to work towards. I
love climbing, I love the thrill of it, but what I love more is getting young
people out on the crag. In my work with the Air Cadets I have been privileged
to work with some truly talented young climbers, taking them out and getting
them interested in climbing was only possible through doing my SPA. Whilst (in
my opinion) easier than Mountain Leader, SPA still demands a huge amount of
work and effort to prepare for your assessment, and in no other area is that
more crucial than getting the right equipment. This article focuses on the
equipment required for your SPA assessment:
For your SPA assessment you
will to take a full climbing rack including everything you will need to lead
and set up climbs (with the exception of ropes). Below is a summary of what I
would recommend for your SPA assessment, and what got me comfortably through my
assessment.
Protection
Nuts – 2 sets 1-11, also consider taking a set of DMM
offset nuts too.
Hexes – 1 set, hexcentrics or similar depending on
personal preference.
Cams – optional, range of sizes.
120cm sling – 3, each with a screwgate karabiner
240cm sling – 2, each with a screwgate karabiner
Other
Quickdraws – around 8
Slingdraws (quickdraws with a 60cm sling instead of a
standard quickdraw sling) - 3
Small screwgate karabiners – at least 3 for building
belays.
Large HMS screwgate karabiners – 3, use for building belays,
releasable abseils, and setting bottom ropes.
Prussik loops – 2, 1.5m of 5-6mm cord tied with a double
fisherman’s knot, with a screwgate.
Belay plate – 2, each with a screwgate.
Nut key – You will get stuff stuck.
Harness/Helmet/Rock boots – obviously
Whilst the above may seem straight forward, it represents
a substantial investment of money, so getting it right is crucial. As with any
equipment lists, this is my recommendation, that isn’t to say I am the foremost
authority on this matter and you shouldn’t diverge from what I list, quite the
opposite, I would encourage you to build you rack the way you want! I will now
discuss a few of the items above….
DMM Alloy Offsets |
Nuts/Wires
Wallnuts vs Rocks vs Stoppers vs Curve nuts vs Spectrum
Wires vs ProNuts….this debate is not new in the climbing community. But which
ones are best? Simply? They are all good, and you need to decide which are best
for you, based on cost, range of sizes, weight etc. However some facts for you:
Biggest range of
sizes: Wild Country rocks are available in sizes
1-14 making them the biggest range available on the market, however you will
need to buy these in 2 sets (1-8 and 9-14) costing you at least £60 a set (if
you find an offer!). Black Diamond’s Stopper pro set is 1-13 and costs less at
around £100.
Cheapest Nuts:
The cheapest set of wires on the market are Zero G’s Spectrum Wires at £49. I
have a set of this and really like them, the shapes are nice, and for the price
you really can’t argue!
Lightest nuts:
The lightest nuts on the market are Metolius’s Ultralight Curve nuts which come
out at 360g for a set of 10. However there is not a massive saving on weight
when compared to DMM Wallnuts for example, which come out at 429g for a set of
11, so whilst being 69g heavier, you do get an extra nut for that weight.
Strongest nuts: All
similar really….most honest opinion I could give! There isn’t much point me
discussing minor differences in operational limits.
Best nuts: Each
to their own, I love DMM wallnuts and have 2 sets of them. I also have a set of
Zero G spectrum wires which have never let me down!
DMM alloy offset in action |
Anything else worth
knowing: Yes, buy a set of DMM alloy offsets! They are
the most incredible set of nuts you will ever buy. Buy them as a supplement to
your full sets of nuts not instead of. They are a set of 5 wires that fit in
places where other nuts simply can’t. The unique shape (based on the original
HB design) fits into offset and odd sizes cracks, and are simply fantastic. I
used these more on my SPA than ever before, and was so glad for having them
with me! I actually own 2 sets now, which I have combined into 1 set, simply
because I place them so much!
Cams
One piece of advice, if you take them, know how to place
them, and certainly don’t use them for rigging. One lad on my assessment got a
slating for placing them incorrectly, and was fighting against that negative
comment in his head the whole assessment. Cams are useful we all know that, I
am not going to go into detail on cams since I believe they are something
people should make their own mind up on. Your options are wide in terms of
brands and types. Personally I use DMM 4CU’s, they are cheap, and work well.
Hexes
Hexes are very useful, and should always be carried. The
larger range of sizes fit in bigger cracks and gaps, and learning how to place
them to take full advantage of the camming action they provide is a crucial
tool to the aspirant SPA holder. In terms of advice, again there isn’t much to
offer here. You have 2 choices; Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and Wild Country
Rockcentrics. The Hexcentrics are on wire, whilst the Rockcentrics are on
sling. Decide whether you would rather have hexes on wire or sling, and buy
accordingly. I own Hexcentrics since I have always felt the durability of wire
outweighs the benefits of the flexibility of sling.
A
word on slingdraws
Carry a few slingdraws. For those of you who have a blank
expression on your face when reading this term; a slingdraw is a quickdraw made
up of a 60cm sling and 2 snapgate karabiners. The sling is attached to each karabiner and doubled up, which leaves the slingdraws at 15cm, they can be used in this format
as normal. However they provide a 60cm extension where you need to extend a
gear placement out to counter rope drag (for example when moving up an
overhang). Slingdraws are very versatile and many climbers exclusively use
slingdraws for the flexibility they offer.
A final
word on kit
By the time you attend your SPA assessment you should
have done at least 40 leads, therefore you will already have a good idea of
what kit you need. Make sure that you can justify every choice of kit, your
assessor will scrutinise anything out of the norm. This may include GriGri’s,
quicklock karabiners (particularly Magnetrons), safety lanyards etc. In addition to all this kit, it is definately worth getting a couple of books on the subject, I would recommend "Rock Climbing" by MLTE. I did a
post on my SPA assessment back when I did it if you are interested in reading
what SPA assessment is like click here
SPOT GPS: Big brother for DofE leaders
"helped initiate more than 550 rescues in 51 countries on land and at sea"
Whilst GPS
messengers have been around for a while now, they have only recently (in the
last couple of years) become commercially viable for the masses. In line with
this new found availability, many Duke of Edinburgh’s Award groups have
purchased these systems to allow them to keep track of groups on the hill. But
how effective are they? Are they worth the large price tag and annual
subscriptions?
My Air Cadet
Wing recently purchased 8 SPOT trackers and the associated licences. I was
therefore given the chance to test these extensively over the expedition
season. This is a short review of the functionality of these devices for use on
expeditions with young people.
'Remote supervision' |
Overview
The way the
units work is simple; they broadcast the position of the unit to a piece of mapping
software such as Mapyx, allowing the instructors to track the group’s location.
The unit also allows the group to send simple pre-programmed messages via the
buttons on the front, request emergency help from the instructor, and request
external search and rescue directly. The unit uses GPS satellites to send
messages and therefore don’t rely on mobile signal. The SPOT units are small
and easy to explain to groups. The units themselves have 4 front buttons, plus
2 buttons that have ‘safety catches’ to prevent accidental triggering. The 4
front buttons (clockwise from the top):
1. The Power Button; turns the unit on
2. The track button; broadcasts the unit’s position
3. Message button; sends a pre-programmed message, such as “we are at our checkpoint”
4. OK button; broadcasts a check in.
The software
that comes with the units can be used to program what the message button sends.
The unit interfaces with the Mapyx software, which has a web based interfaced,
allowing instructors to log in to the website and view (on a 1:25,000 OS Map)
where the group are.
Costings
The SPOT GPS
unit itself will cost you £160 (RRP although they can be found for cheaper)
On top of
the cost of the unit you need to pay an annual subscription. Subscriptions vary
depending on how often you want the unit to broadcast the position of the unit,
the more frequent the location updates, the higher the cost. You must pay £99
per year for the basic service and tracking, this can then be upgraded by
paying the appropriate upgrade fee. Prices can be found below:
1.
Basic Service and Tracking (Required)
Costing £99 Per Year - Required for all Spot devices.
Package include unlimited predefined Custom, Check In, Tracking, Help and SOS
messages. Basic tracking automatically transmits your GPS location every 10
minutes for 24 hours so you can share your adventures in near real time via
SPOT Adventures or a SPOT shared page. You can track as long as you like, but
after 24 hours, you will need to re-set your tracking.
2.
Unlimited Tracking (Optional)
Costing £28 Per Year on top of the Basic cost- SPOT
Gen3's enhanced tracking features allow you to choose your rate of tracking.
Pre-set your SPOT Gen3 to send your GPS coordinates every 5, 10, 30, or 60
minutes to suit the speed of your adventures. In addition, Unlimited Tracking
will continue to track your progress beyond 24 hours, allowing you to set it
and forget it (no need to re-set after 24 hours).
3.
Extreme Tracking (Optional)
Costing £72 Per Year on top of the basic cost- Get all of
the great features of Basic and Unlimited Tracking but with the added ability
to vary your track rate down to every 2.5 minutes. Perfect for pilots and the
ultra outdoor enthusiast.
GEOS
Search and Rescue Benefit (Optional)
Costing £8 Per Year - The GEOS Search and Rescue member
benefit covers up to £50k in search and rescue expenses, even coordinating a
private rescue contractor, if needed.
The software |
The
software
The units use Mapyx mapping
software (although they can be programmed to use others). The software is web based allowing instructors to log in
from any web based device; tablets, phones, laptops etc. Any alerts sent from
the unit i.e. Distress calls will also be sent to a pre-configured mobile
number.
The
drawbacks
There are some quite big
drawbacks to this system:
1. Unless you have access to
the internet where you are (which will usually be remote areas), then the
system is generally useless from a tracking point of view. Whilst the alerts
will come through to a mobile, the tracking relies on the web based internet.
2. The web based net system
on 3G internet requires a good connection, quite often you won’t have this in
the outdoors. As a result trying to view locations on the internet system is
difficult (ties into the point above).
3. Cost - £160 + £99 per
year is expensive, simple! Is it worth it for peace of mind?
If multiple instructors are
trying to access the web system to view the groups locations, it will log out
the person who is logged into the web system when the next instructor tries to
log in. The instructor who got kicked off will invariably try and log back in
thus logging out the person who just logged in. This happened to me during an
expedition, and was honestly one of the most frustrating experiences of my
life.
The
positives
There also some quite big
positives to this system:
1. If you are in an area
with good internet it’s an excellent way of keeping tabs on a group without
smothering them with attention.
2. The group will ALWAYS have
a means of contacting help in an emergency, which can provide peace of mind,
although my worst nightmare is seeing Mountain Rescue storming past a
checkpoint where I’m waiting for a group, and not realise they are running to
the aid of one of my groups!
3. If you have someone at a “base”
location, with steady WiFi, they can act as a point of contact and relay grid
references and other information to the team in the field.
The
verdict
Expensive, but potentially
worth it. They provide a means of contacting emergency services regardless of
mobile signal, for leaders in the field the tracking can be quite ineffective
due to poor internet signal, however if using a base location can provide an
excellent means of keeping track of groups.
Sunday 12 April 2015
Easter climbing at Windgather
At the top of the first lead of the day |
Em on High Buttress Arete (D**) |
#ProudBoyfriend
Equipment for Basic Expedition Leader and Lowland Valley Leader – Making the right choices
This is the first in a
series of articles on what equipment you should take for your assessment in a
range of qualifications. This week is Basic Expedition Leader (BEL) and Lowland
Valley Leader (LVL), and over the next week I will also be posted on both
Mountain Leader and Single Pitch Award. I have also previously done articles on expedition kit, mountain leader kit, and winter kit for feel free to have a look at them too! Enjoy!
I am a qualified Mountain
Leader currently working towards both my Winter ML and Mountaineering
Instructor Award. I am also a course director for the Basic Expedition Leader
Award and soon to be a Director for the Lowland Valley Leader too. I have a
wealth of experience working with groups for over 10 years, and the
recommendations made in this article are based on that experience. Choosing the
right kit for taking groups out can be tricky. This is complicated by the fact
that during assessment your choice of equipment will be scrutinised for
suitability by your assessors. This article is meant as a ‘foundation’ on which
you can develop your personal equipment choices, this list is not exhaustive
and there may well be other items you wish to add to your kit. This article
also focuses on the equipment required for a day walk as opposed to a multi-day
expedition.
Rucksack:
Choosing the correct
rucksack is essential as it allows you to not only fit the required amount of
equipment in, but also remain comfortable throughout the day. An ideal rucksack
for your leader kit on BEL or LVL would be around the 40 Litre mark. In my
personal opinion Osprey packs are worth considering, whilst at the top end in
terms of price, they are also at the top end in terms of performance, providing
excellent comfort and well-designed packs. 40 Litres is only a guide size, and
you may wish to carry a pack that is either bigger or
smaller than this.
Key things to look for:
When you buy your rucksack
test it! Most reputable shops will have weight bags you can place into the bag
to test it. Do not blindly buy off the internet! Also bear in mind that many brands of
rucksack now produce packs in different (fixed) back sizes, so do your research
and make sure you get the right size for you!
First Aid Kit:
As a group leader you are
responsible for ensuring you have the correct equipment to deal with a range of
emergencies on the hill. One of the key items in your emergency kit is your
first aid kit. Your kit must be big enough to deal with multiple injuries to
multiple casualties, but also take into account the fact that you need to be
carrying it around with you all day. The result needs to be a balanced kit
comprehensive enough to cover all scenarios, and light enough not to be a
burden on the hill. My kit began life as a Lifesystems Mountain Leader first aid kit. I added several items to the kit and removed items such as painkillers
(as leaders we cannot administer these to young people). I added; foil blankets
x 2, small GPS, incident card, blister plaster pack, tick tweezers, and extra
gloves. Adding these items is not required to make the kit usable, but I have
found these are the items I use most frequently and aren’t included in the kit,
and therefore top up the kit to provide everything I need. You may wish to add
extra items not mentioned above, or add nothing. I also like the Lifesystems
First Aid Kit layout because it splits the sections of the kit down into usable
areas like “breaks and fractures” and “Bleeding” which means anyone can know
where the items in your kit are stored in the event you are incapacitated, or
need someone else to use it.
Key things to look for:
When buying a first aid kit
make sure it is big enough to cover everything you need. Some people prefer to
buy an empty first aid kit bag and add their own equipment. Don’t overload
yourself with kit, you have to carry it all day remember!
Group Shelter:
A group shelter is an
essential and sometimes overlooked item of emergency kit. It provides a
temporary emergency shelter for injured parties, provides a temporary respite
from poor conditions, or even a convenient place to hide during a lunch a stop.
There are various sizes and brands of group shelter available. When choosing a
group shelter bear in mind the potential size of your group; a 2 person shelter
is no good if you plan to be working with groups of 8-10. Group shelters can be
found in sizes up to 20 person. Personally I carry an 8 person shelter (Terra
Nova Bothy 8), which will work for
around 10 young people. All the brands of shelter are broadly equivalent and
will generally work for 2 or more people than the size stated (i.e. a 10 person
both could fit 12 at a push). Group shelters are a balance between size and weight, the bigger they are
the more they weigh, so consider what size you want to carry to provide shelter
in an emergency without burdening you with extra weight.
Key things to look for:
There are 3 main brands of
group shelter; Outdoor Designs, Vango, and Terra Nova, all produce shelters of
varying sizes. Terra Nova sell a “Superlite” version which costs a lot more but
weighs less (the 4 person standard shelter weighs 600g and costs £45, the
superlite weighs 400g and costs £120). In my opinion such a huge difference in
cost does not represent value for money where the saving in weight is only 33%.
GPS:
In the modern world it makes
sense to take advantage of current technology. I believe all leaders working
with young people in the hills/mountains should carry, and know how to use, a
GPS handset. In a pinch these provide simple, one touch access to a pinpoint
location which can be provided to emergency services. This also takes the
pressure off you in an emergency, allowing you to focus on treating the
casualty, rather than needing to work out an accurate location. There are several
dedicated GPS handsets below £100 on the market, with the Magellan eXplorist110 and Etrex 10 being 2 of the most popular – both reviewed on this blog if
you search back. On a budget? There are a wide variety of apps available for
android and iOS that use the GPS functionality of your phone to provide
accurate fixes. Before using one of these make sure you check whether your
phone has a GPS antenna or just uses an internet fix to provide location.
Failure to check this could mean you think you have access to GPS in an
emergency, when in actual fact it relies on a solid 3G or H+ signal to work.
Key things to look for:
Keep it simple, there a wide
range of GPS sets that have OS map functionality etc. Do you really need access
to these features? Or do you need a simple set that provides a quick and
accurate read out in an emergency? Consider this when buying a GPS. Also check
that the handset is fully waterproof, this may come in handy for UK weather!
Spare kit:
When operating with groups
it is often prudent to carry spare equipment in case of drama on the hill! This
can vary depending on the leader. Most leaders carry spare hats and gloves.
Personally I carry spare hats and gloves x 2-3 pairs, in addition I carry spare
socks, and spare laces, along with a spare warm layer such as a down jacket or
belay jacket. The equipment you choose to carry is completely down to you, but
also consider the time of year, the location you are operating in, and the
weather.
Key things to look for:
Your spare kit doesn’t need
to be expensive!
Consider conditions when packing your leader kit |
Personal Kit:
- Waterproofs
- Warm layer (down jacket etc)
- Map and compass
- Water + Spare water (consider a hydration system of some description)
- Walking poles (can also be given to a group member in event of injury)
- Penknife or similar
This article contains
recommendations for equipment to be carried, however I stress that choosing
YOUR leader kit should be based on personal preference. Your equipment will
constantly evolve, as you gain more experience what you carry will change. Consideration
also needs to be given to your group size, conditions, time of year, which may
mean you carry more or less of certain items.
Monday 9 March 2015
Mountain Rescue vs Muppets
…of course I don’t mean the loveable Jim Henson puppets, no I am of course referring to the oxygen bandits that frequently make Mountain Rescue’s job much harder than it already is. Let’s face it, Mountain Rescue do an amazing job, despite the lack of funding provided by the government. It therefore makes my blood boil, when every year I see article after article about moronic behaviour by ill equipped novice walkers and climbers doing irresponsible and reckless things, that then require Mountain Rescue volunteers to put their lives on the line to rescue them. Let’s look at some case studies over the last 3 months, starting with this chopper who thought tackling Crib Y Ddysgyl in a leather jacket, jeans and plimsolls, in winter, in 90mph gusts, was a good idea….
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2015/01/15/teen-rescued-from-snowdon-ridge-in-90mph-winds-very-lucky-to-be-alive
It defies belief that someone can lack common sense to such a degree that they believe climbing a tough Snowdonia ridge in Winter and high winds in jeans and plimsolls is a good idea. The quote that really stuck with me reading this article was:
“On the one hand we had a young walker in jeans, plimsolls and a leather jacket rapidly succumbing to hypothermia; on the other a responsibility not to put team members’ lives in such serious danger. There was a real possibility that we might have been forced to leave him there on the mountain.”
More examples of idiots from this weekend:
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2015/03/08/tryfan-walker-clinging-to-adam-and-eve-among-nine-ill-prepared-rescued-walkers
And…..one more:
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2014/01/27/two-teams-in-rescue-of-hypothermic-snowdon-walker-in-jeans-and-trainers
But what really got me into this subject on this occasion, was the rant from Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team about a recent incident which involved experienced climbers. Mountain Rescue Teams often make a point of not slagging off people they rescue, regardless of the frankly idiotic circumstances that often lead to the requirement for rescue. However in this case this was an experienced group, who got into trouble in tough conditions, one of the group fell and MRT were called. What lead to rant was not the fact that they got into trouble, but the fact that when Mountain Rescue told the 2 uninjured climbers to stay put, they ignored the advice, moved, and fell down a cliff, making Mountain Rescues job 200% harder, putting more volunteers at risk for longer, and requiring more kit to be sacrificed. To me this is just sheer idiocy, if you’ve had to call the teams out, you do what they say, simple. You don’t know better, if you knew better you wouldn’t be calling them out. In my opinion Lochaber Mountain Rescue team were completely justified in airing their feelings on this matter. People need to know the crass stupidity that goes on behind closed doors. I am glad to see there was a huge outpouring of support for Lochaber after the comments were posted on Facebook. See the original post on this site:
http://www.heraldscotland.com/news/home-news/rescuers-rant-at-climbers-who-knew-better.119505890
But where do they draw the line? At what point does it become “they made their bed, now they need to lie in it”, or in this case, lie down and die in it. Now in my heart I know I wouldn’t be able to just leave that kid up there to die, and I know for a fact that that the mountain rescue teams share that sentiment, why else would they “put down their daily lives and head up a mountain in weather that no-one else would be out in, prepared to risk their own lives to save another, without pay, without expenses and many, many times a year.” But where do they draw the line? Is there a line? Or do Mountain Rescue just continue to stretch their limited resources to protect the freedom of novice walkers and climbers to be idiots? The answer I imagine is yes, because despite the obvious frustration they must feel, they are all part of the teams because they want to save lives, and given that there will never be laws preventing wally’s doing idiotic stuff, the outcome seems inevitable…
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2015/01/15/teen-rescued-from-snowdon-ridge-in-90mph-winds-very-lucky-to-be-alive
It defies belief that someone can lack common sense to such a degree that they believe climbing a tough Snowdonia ridge in Winter and high winds in jeans and plimsolls is a good idea. The quote that really stuck with me reading this article was:
“On the one hand we had a young walker in jeans, plimsolls and a leather jacket rapidly succumbing to hypothermia; on the other a responsibility not to put team members’ lives in such serious danger. There was a real possibility that we might have been forced to leave him there on the mountain.”
More examples of idiots from this weekend:
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2015/03/08/tryfan-walker-clinging-to-adam-and-eve-among-nine-ill-prepared-rescued-walkers
And…..one more:
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2014/01/27/two-teams-in-rescue-of-hypothermic-snowdon-walker-in-jeans-and-trainers
But what really got me into this subject on this occasion, was the rant from Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team about a recent incident which involved experienced climbers. Mountain Rescue Teams often make a point of not slagging off people they rescue, regardless of the frankly idiotic circumstances that often lead to the requirement for rescue. However in this case this was an experienced group, who got into trouble in tough conditions, one of the group fell and MRT were called. What lead to rant was not the fact that they got into trouble, but the fact that when Mountain Rescue told the 2 uninjured climbers to stay put, they ignored the advice, moved, and fell down a cliff, making Mountain Rescues job 200% harder, putting more volunteers at risk for longer, and requiring more kit to be sacrificed. To me this is just sheer idiocy, if you’ve had to call the teams out, you do what they say, simple. You don’t know better, if you knew better you wouldn’t be calling them out. In my opinion Lochaber Mountain Rescue team were completely justified in airing their feelings on this matter. People need to know the crass stupidity that goes on behind closed doors. I am glad to see there was a huge outpouring of support for Lochaber after the comments were posted on Facebook. See the original post on this site:
http://www.heraldscotland.com/news/home-news/rescuers-rant-at-climbers-who-knew-better.119505890
But where do they draw the line? At what point does it become “they made their bed, now they need to lie in it”, or in this case, lie down and die in it. Now in my heart I know I wouldn’t be able to just leave that kid up there to die, and I know for a fact that that the mountain rescue teams share that sentiment, why else would they “put down their daily lives and head up a mountain in weather that no-one else would be out in, prepared to risk their own lives to save another, without pay, without expenses and many, many times a year.” But where do they draw the line? Is there a line? Or do Mountain Rescue just continue to stretch their limited resources to protect the freedom of novice walkers and climbers to be idiots? The answer I imagine is yes, because despite the obvious frustration they must feel, they are all part of the teams because they want to save lives, and given that there will never be laws preventing wally’s doing idiotic stuff, the outcome seems inevitable…
A roller coaster relationship with climbing.
Emma on Trident Arete (VD) |
Over the last few years I’ve really struggled with
motivation to enjoy myself in the outdoors, particularly with climbing. During
my teacher training (and even the year preceding) I had very little time to do
anything except work, plan, mark, and try and grab some sleep. (Incidently, anyone
who says teachers have it easy, doesn’t have a clue)… I suppose I got it into
my head that I couldn’t enjoy
climbing anymore. I mentioned to Emma a few nights ago that ‘I didn’t enjoy
climbing anymore’, this was after a particularly enlightening indoor climbing
session where I realised I had lost much of previous strength and stamina, and I
felt pretty useless I must admit. I suppose at the time, I meant it, but
looking back I was probably still a bit miffed at my poor performance at the
wall.
After I finished work early on Friday, Emma suggested we go
climbing, and to be honest, at that moment, that was the thing I wanted to do
most! So we literally grabbed the kit and headed over to Harborough Rocks, with
the aim of getting Emma a couple of leads towards her SPA. As I watched Emma
leading, it was the first time (in a very long time), where I actually felt
like I wanted to climb; it was a feeling I hadn’t had for a long time.
Previously when I’d gone climbing, I just sat there wishing I was home on the
Xbox , or chilling, or doing anything else that wasn’t climbing. I was really
happy to feel a genuine spark of passion, to get climbing again. With Emma
doing her SPA training soon, and summer fast approaching, I find myself looking
forward to getting out and getting some climbing done! It’s amazing what being
with someone you really care about and you share so much with can rekindle in
you; I really, genuinely thought I had fallen out of love with climbing, but as
I sit here writing this article, all I can think is that I want to plan what
leads I want to do when me and Emma head to Wales in a couple of weeks. #LetsDoThis
Monday 2 February 2015
Gucci Karabiners: Black Diamond Magnetron vs Grivel TwinGate
Black Diamond Rocklock (top) Grivel TwinGate (bottom) |
First up then, the Black Diamond Magnetron.The Magnetron karabiners come in 3 different versions; the Gridlock from (£27), the Vaporlock (From £24) and the Rocklock (From £21). The gridlock is a magnetron version of Black Diamonds Gridlock karabiner, the Vaporlock is a small pear shaped karabiner, and the Rocklock is a larger HMS karabiner, all are available with different colour gates and all 3 feature the Magnetron locking system; meaning all you have to do is to gently apply pressure on either side of the karabiner gate to unclip the magnet system allowing the gate to open. On releasing the gate the magnet re- engages and the karabiner locks closed automatically. This is incredibly easy to do, and allows for
Bent spine shape allows for maximum gate opening |
Now onto the Grivel TwinGate series. There are 2 versions of the TwinGate karabiner; the Sigma and the Mega. The Sigma is a smaller snap gate style karabiner, whilst the Mega is a slightly larger HMS karabiner. To save me having to explain the TwinGate system, please see this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPdSBA6Fjig which explains the various ways you can use the karabiner. Personally I have found the TwinGate system a little fiddly compared to other karabiners, the idea of having to fiddle one gate up, whilst holding the other open also, is exactly as annoying as it sounds! At 79g it is lighter that the Magnetron, however it is worth bearing in mind that the TwinGate is is smaller than the Magnetron, which would account for the extra weight. I would also add at this point that the TwinGate has a much smaller gate opening, owing to its double gate system, so don't rely on being able to easily clip multiple clove hitches, large knots etc onto the TwinGates. One massive plus for the TwinGate however is the cost, at £11 each for the Mega or Sigma, you can buy 2 TwinGates for each Magnetron. The question is, would you want to? For me, no, no I wouldn't. I just don't like the TwinGate system, it's fiddly, and goes against the reflexes I have built up over 10 years of climbing, my reflex isn't to open 2 gates at once, my reflex is to do **something** which opens the gate, however that **something** is a single action, and doesn't involve doing 2 seperate things! Perhaps it is just me, at £11 it's worth you trying it for yourself and not taking my word for it. I will persist with the TwinGate system, perhaps in time it will grow on me.....
Return to duty! Birchen Edge trip Jan 2015
Emma gearing up! |
Concentrating face! |
Stoked S 4a |
Friday 25 May 2012
Ethics on Everest (2012 edition)
The Everest Conga Line |
The issue of ethics on Everest is raised every year, usually round about the time the annual deaths occur in the Everest climbing season (blunt way of putting it, but true none the less). For me my interest in the subject came a number of years ago while watching “Everest Beyond the Limit”; a series on the Discovery channel following a number of climbers attempting to summit Everest in 2006. The series became famous for the footage of climbers on the expedition finding a dying climber (who would later be named as David Sharp). David Sharp had attempted to climb Everest unsupported and unguided using a minimalist package from Asian Trekking. He was discovered barely conscious at Green Boots cave; a small shelter containing the body of Tsewang Paljor; an Indian Climber who died on Everest in 1996. It is estimated that before David died he was passed by more than 40 climbers who did not render any assistance to the dying man. The first man to encounter David was Mark Inglis - a double amputee from New Zealand. Inglis stated in an interview when he found David on his ascent, he thought he was already dead, and had continued on. Another climber from the same group (Max Chaya) encountered David on his descent from the summit and attempted to give assistance, along with a Sherpa from the group, but to no avail – David was unable to walk even with assistance and an hour of trying. David died on 15th May 2006. Much of the criticism was (unfairly in my opinion) levelled at Russel Bryce – the expedition leader of the Chaya and Inglis expedition group, because it was felt he did not offer enough assistance to David.
1 week later an Austrailia climber; Lincoln Hall was left for dead on Everest after he fell ill with altitude sickness. His sherpa’s had attempted for hours to get him moving but eventually he was left for dead. It was widely reported in the media that he had died. The next day a team lead by US climber Dan Mazur
encountered Lincoln:
Lincoln Hall |
“Sitting to our left, about two feet from a 10,000 foot drop, was a man. Not dead, not sleeping, but sitting cross legged, in the process of changing his shirt. He had his down suit unzipped to the waist, his arms out of the sleeves, was wearing no hat, no gloves, no sunglasses, had no oxygen mask, regulator, ice axe, oxygen, no sleeping bag, no mattress, no food nor water bottle. 'I imagine you're surprised to see me here', he said. Now, this was a moment of total disbelief to us all. Here was a gentleman, apparently lucid, who had spent the night without oxygen at 8600m, without proper equipment and barely clothed. And ALIVE”
A rescue on a massive scale swung into action with a team of 12 Sherpa’s plus Dan Mazur and his team (who had abandoned their summit bid) worked to get Lincoln down from Everest. He survived.
After seeing Everest Beyond the Limits and seeing the genuine emotion from expedition members who encountered David Sharp, there was no lack of desire to help him, but 2 people can’t drag a dying man down a mountain in the death zone, but 40 people might have been able to. Anyone wanting to read more about the controversy regarding the 2006 Everest deaths, should consider reading “Dark Summit” by Nick Heil, it gives a balanced and detailed account of what happened and why.
Ms Shuttleworth |
"There were casualties from the day before, which was tragic and horrendous.
“There were quite a few bodies attached to the fixed lines and we had to walk round them.
"There were a couple who were still alive.”
[http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-18199899]
I had to read this several times for it to sink in; “We had to walk round them”, “Couple who were still alive”. She makes reference that one Sherpa helped one of them but they were “to far gone”. To reference back to the Lincoln Hall incident, is it the case that “too far gone” has become something which people judge differently on Everest, do they want to believe they are “too far gone” to alleviate their own guilt at walking past/around/over them, or are they genuinely too far gone. Lincoln hall was placed in this bracket yet he lived, how many others are judged to be "too far gone" where they could in fact be saved. Easy for me to judge sat in my living room on a warm summers day, but I know myself, I know that were I ever in that situation I would never allow myself to carry on to the summit while there were living people dying behind me. Perhaps there is often nothing that can be done for these people, but I couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t try, and I find it worrying how many Everest tourists these days (people with no mountaineering background or skills) devalue human life in exchange for the bragging rights of climbing Everest. 40 people passed David Sharp, if 20 people had stopped, maybe he would have been saved, maybe he wouldn’t. These people Leanna talks about walking around, maybe they were dead already, or maybe if she (and others) had helped then they wouldn’t be. Leanna will get a hard time from the climbing community unless she comes forward to justify herself (difficult to try and do I suppose), UKClimbing.com (lead by Simon….) have already started a frank discussion on the matter: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=507050&v=1#x6887864, she perhaps doesn’t deserve the stick she is going to get, she is just another ambitious teenager who didn't realise what she was putting her foot in, but should maybe have considered the implications of bringing up such a sensitive issue in this manner whilst in the public eye, many would consider her use of "people dying on the ropes" just a way to emphasise her achievement; I'm not one of them. It should also be stressed at this point that my anger is not directed solely at Leanna, she is simply a public face of the otherwise faceless horde of walkers who seem to disregard human life in favor of achieving their own goals.
Nadav Ben-Yehuda (left) and Aydin Irmak |
I want to leave on one short phrase which for me summed up the difference between people who walk past dying humans on Everest, and those who stop to help;
Nadav Ben-Yehuda described his decision to stop and help Aydin Irmak as “Automatic”, how many less people would die on Everest if more people described their decisions as such.
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